Experience the mystery of caves, great wine, and conversation

—Caves open our imaginations to adventure and possibilities. In legends, caves are mystical pathways, the lairs of dragons guarding treasures, and gateways to the hero’s journey. There are caves in Paso Robles where one can explore treasured, exquisite wine and perhaps even a new consciousness, especially about wine, under the guidance of Gary Eberle, who prefers to be called Gary.

There is no dragon in the Eberle caves, and the guardian, Gary, is pleased to share the treasured wine he has stored there. He may even insist on it. Known as the Godfather of Paso Robles, Gary is one of the pioneers of Paso Robles wine country, a co-founder of the Paso Robles AVA, and the first to build wine caves in the area.

Thirty years underground

When the Eberle caves opened in 1996, they were a first for San Luis Obispo County—a bold venture carved into the limestone hillsides. The first request to excavate the caves was denied by San Luis Obispo County. No one had ever asked to do such a thing, and the county just didn’t know what do about it. Gary applied to the U.S. Bureau of Mines and, $10 later, got the permit.

What began as 8,000 square feet of caves in 1996 more than doubled that size three years later. At a depth of 30 feet, with a temperature around 60 degrees, every barrel of Eberle wine is aged underground. The caves have the capacity to store 2700 barrels.

The caves are also stages for celebrations. The VIP room hosts small, intimate tastings or dinners and has seen many a romantic, candlelit proposal. The Wild Boar Room (Eberle is German for “boar”) welcomes larger gatherings and hosts the famed Guest Chef Dinner Series.

Despite rumors of whispering spirits drifting through the tunnels, Gary insists no ghosts linger, and the only spirits are Eberle’s award-winning wines. Some visitors claim you can catch a buzz just breathing the rich, wine-infused air.

Gary Eberle, Godfathr of Paso Robles and Guardian of the Caves.

Who is the Godfather of Paso Robles?

While enjoying a few glasses of Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon, Gary shared stories from his past.

After graduating from Penn State as a football star under the legendary “Papa” Joe Paterno, Gary was drafted by the Detroit Lions. Unfortunately, his football-damaged knees limited his pro career to less than three weeks. Gary decided to join the U.S. Marines. The Vietnam conflict was heating up, and Gary wanted to serve his country. His knees betrayed him again after two different Marine recruitment centers rejected him.

In hindsight, given the circumstances of the Vietnam War, being unable to enlist was probably a good thing. But Gary replied, “No, not really. Because I couldn’t go, someone had to go in my place.” Unable to join the Marines, Gary chose to study cellular genetics at Louisiana State University, where he discovered wine, specifically cabernet sauvignon. He decided to become a winemaker, which led him to UC Davis. There, he earned a Ph.D. in enology and viticulture and began a friendship with Robert Mondavi. Mr. Mondavi became his mentor, friend, and influencer, teaching him lessons that Gary continues to live by.

Gary brought those lessons to Paso Robles in 1973, co-founding the Paso Robles AVA and pioneering local viticulture alongside industry icons, including Justin Baldwin and Jerry Lohr. His first release in 1979 marked the beginning of a winemaking legacy that helped shape the region’s global reputation.

Mr. Mondavi’s influence

Over time, Mr. Mondavi became Gary’s mentor and friend. Taking another sip of his wine, Gary said, “I don’t know why Mr. Mondavi took me under his wing. He was about 60, and I was just a kid, but he taught me everything I know about winemaking.” Gary credits Mr. Mondavi’s teachings with shaping his success over the past 50 years. Those teachings include:

• Tastings should be free (and Gary extends that philosophy to cave tours).
• Once you have an established, recognizable label, never change it.
• You want your visitors to experience wine and the surroundings, not just taste.

During our recent visit, Gary shared a story about the day Mr. Mondavi told him to drop the “Mr.” and call him Robert. Even though they had known each other for a long time, Gary persisted in using “Mr. Mondavi” and does so to this day. It’s a gesture reflecting the deep respect he holds for the man who taught him about the industry and helped shape the California wine scene.

The spirit of Eberle

Gary has been honored many times, receiving the American Wine Legend Award from the “Wine Enthusiast,” the Robert Mondavi Hospitality Award, the California State Fair Lifetime Achievement Award, in addition to the many awards for Eberle wines.

Eberle Winery was the first to list Paso Robles AVA on its label, the first to plant syrah vines on the Central Coast, and produce 100% syrah wine in the US. Eberle Winery led the way by being the first San Luis Obispo County winery to achieve national distribution. Despite his leadership and pioneering, Gary consistently prioritizes the region’s wines over self-promotion.

During our recent conversation, Gary revealed that he loves what he does and needs nothing more. He has created a trust to pass the winery on to his key employees when that time comes, ensuring the continuation of Eberle Winery and helping to secure the future of his employees and their families.

Gary can be found almost any day doing what he loves most, sitting at the winery entrance, sipping wine, and inviting visitors to chat. He’ll also introduce you to his elegant standard poodles, Vio (short for viognier), and Barbera. If asked nicely, Barbera will even sing some opera.

Gary Eberle is like a fine wine—well-aged, enticing, and fun, leaving you hesitating to finish that last drop from the glass and final words of conversation. But, in the end, you will have experienced the company of a man who helped build Paso Robles wine country and continues to pour his heart into it every day. And…you can always come back!

Eberle Winery is located at 3810 Hwy 46 East, Paso Robles. The tasting room opens at 10 a.m. and closing times vary by season. Closed for major holidays. For more information, visit eberlewinery.com or call (805) 238-9607.

—Don Sonderling

Don Sonderling is a freelance writer covering California’s unique lifestyle of wine, food, and adventure from Santa Barbara to Napa Valley and beyond. He may be reached at: donsonderling@gmail.com